Maialino

I remember visiting Maialino this past spring and being enamored of the fresh mozzarella and heirloom tomato salad. The simple but beautiful dish was served at room temperature for full flavor; chilling destroys the taste of tomatoes. I had also enjoyed the authentic carbonara - so many restaurants adulterate it with cream instead of letting the egg yolk create the sauce, but not Maialino.

So I thought I'd repeat my visit. Tonight, a friend and I scored a last-minute early reservation. The bread basket of spicy breadsticks, crusty sesame loaf and focaccia was devoured in about five minutes. Stracciatella, a sort of Italian egg drop soup, was rich and delicious. The salad misticanza was less appealing - a pile of plainly dressed arugula seemed to go on for miles and needed a bit of blue cheese or something.

Homemade tonnarelli cacio e pepe was wonderful - lots of black pepper and pungent pecorino coated the wavy noodles. My friend enjoyed the bombolotti, big, al dente pasta tubes with guanciale and tomato. But what really impressed me was my dessert - and the superlative service. I couldn't decide between the olive oil cake with vanilla bean mascarpone and the gianduja bread pudding. Our server debated the merits of both with me, and then hooked me up with the best of both worlds: a dish of vanilla mascarpone and the round bread pudding. The warm, buttery dessert was sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts and contained a surprise of melted, oozing chocolate inside. I should also mention the great fresh-ground Four Barrel Coffee.

Next time we'll have to order the signature suckling pig!

Maialino: 2 Lexington Ave., (212) 777-2410.